Tim Dowling: ‘I’m happy to cook. It’s just the painful hand burns I object to’ | Life and style


When the oldest one left home for the second time about six years ago, my wife made an announcement.

“That’s it,” she said. “I’m never cooking again.”

“Um, OK,” I said. And she never did. Never again, not once.

At first, I accepted this gauntlet with equanimity. I didn’t mind cooking, and my wife almost always did the washing up. When all our sons returned home during the pandemic I found cooking for five every night a bit of a chore, but actually it’s more difficult cooking for two these days. My wife has become increasingly fussy about food, and I have not expanded my repertoire to keep pace.

It is 6pm on a Tuesday, and the fridge is full. I find my wife in the living room watching a documentary about women who murder their husbands – her favourite genre.

“What are we having?” I say.

“Why are you asking me?” she says.

“You know why,” I say. “Which of the things you bought this morning will you be refusing tonight?”

“I got lamb,” she says. “Please don’t make me eat lamb.”

“Next,” I say.

“We could have the pork medallions,” she says.

“Don’t use that word,” I say.

“Fine,” she says. “Pork circles, egg fried rice … ”

“I need 24 hours’ notice for egg fried rice,” I say. “And eggs.”

“I’m watching this,” she says. “You decide.”

I put two potatoes in the oven and examine the pork: two round steaks – cross sections, I imagine, from a large tenderloin. I don’t object to the word “medallion” in non-food contexts, but I shudder a little as I type it into my phone alongside the word “pork”. After looking over several recipes, one thing becomes clear: pork circles are easy to overcook.

I set about preparing a stir-fried broccoli dish over which my wife has lodged no previous objections, while performing a few calculations in my head to ensure everything is ready at the same time.

When the moment arrives, I heat some oil in a cast-iron pan and sear the pork on both sides. Then, as I have seen TV chefs do, I put the whole pan in the oven with the potatoes. Nine minutes, I think, and no more.

“We’re about ready,” I say to my wife. She follows me back into the kitchen, and watches as I lift the sizzling pan from the oven.

“It’s like a restaurant,” she says.

“An expensive restaurant,” I say, chucking the oven gloves aside. I have further plans for the pork – a quick reduction with some butter, white wine and a crushed garlic clove – but they are abandoned when, in my hurry, I reach out and grab the pan firmly by its handle.

“Shitting hell!” I scream, my seared palm sticking a little as I try to ungrab the handle.

“What?” my wife shouts. The dog barks. The cat runs from the room. I wheel around and hold my hand under the running tap until it throbs numbly.

“So,” I say, “help yourself.”

“What about you?” my wife says.

“I think I might have to be here for a while,” I say.

I leave my hand under the tap for five minutes, but when I remove it the pain returns after a few seconds. It’s not quite long enough to assemble a plate of food.

Eventually, I end up watching TV with my wife and eating with my left hand, while my right hand rests in a salad bowl full of iced water. On the screen, a woman in an orange prison uniform sits expressionless in a courtroom.

“Who’s she?” I say.

“My role model,” my wife says. “How’s your hand?”

I lift my hand from the water. The pain returns.

“Fine,” I say.

Two nights later, I remind my wife that I have plans to go out.

“I forgot about that,” she says.

“I’m afraid I won’t be here to cook your supper,” I say.

“That’s OK,” she says “I’ll have a disgusting ready meal instead.”

“Really?” I say.

“I can’t wait,” she says. “I’ll go and buy it now.”

I return home at 11, my burnt hand lightly stinging from the cold. Inside the fridge I see an untouched ready meal – a chicken kiev of the worst sort. I find my wife in bed reading.

“You didn’t have your thing,” I say.

“I couldn’t be bothered,” she says.

“So now if I don’t cook you don’t even eat?” I say. My wife shrugs.

I go downstairs thinking, she really meant it: never again, not once, not even a little bit. I look in the fridge again, wondering how badly it would go down if I ate the ready meal myself.


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